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Everything was ready: we had applied for the
Iranian visas, my friend in Teheran Farshad Khalili (a local
alpine guide) had been put on stand-by and the Iranian travel
agency had been entrusted with the organization of my fourth
expedition to Iran. Maurizio, Jimmy, John and Andrew were elated
at the thought of making their some winter ascents and descents
In Iran as I had done the year before. The chosen area was Chaor
Maal in the Zagros Range.
Then, September 11th, 2001 came and the Americans
said that the whole area was at risk, also Iran and Iraq. This
is the reason why we decided to do a simpler tour in the Balkans:
Greece or Bulgaria.
In the meantime, autumn in the Alps of Italy
was very poor in snow and the only ski resorts where you could
"ski" were Cervinia, Tonale and La Thuile (but with
no powder at all). The lovers of the groomed were having a good
time but we longed for something to satisfy the more adventurous
side of our spirits. So we chose a new destination: Bulgaria.
But two weeks before we were to leave, a friend from there wrote
us that it was raining and the snow was only on the highest peaks:
this was really bad news. So, since I count myself lucky to have
quite a few friends all over the world, immediately I wrote to
Dimitros in Greece who answered that Parnassos, Olympus and the
mountains north of Salonicco were in perfect condition. This
was the way "Operation Zeus" began. Maurizio Fasano,
John Eames, Andrew Denton and I arranged to meet in Athens, at
the airport the final weekend of December last season (01/02).
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Saturday 23rd
Maurizio,
the "Pidgeon" and I meet at Malpensa, which has to
the most well hidden airport in the world. Yes, it's the biggest
airport in Italy but the way to reach it is very difficult to
find!!!! Maybe it's only another "Italian Miracle".
Our flight on a DC9 Md 90 is fine and when we arrived at Athens,
as planned, we met John and Andrew coming from the UK . Immediately,
we rented a little van from Hertz (640 E for 9 days : it's a
good price). Then we started driving: the first time in Greece
is terrible because most
of the traffic signs are written, of course, in Greek without
any translation so of course we get lost. Very lost.
After about two hours we found ourselves in a northern suburb
of Athens, finally on the right route for Lamia, where we checked
into the Hotel American (11E per night). For
dinner we had chicken, pork, lamb, a good choice of salads, excellent
wine (of course, we are, of course, Italian), Metaxa, Ouzo and
sweets (for four people: 30 E).
Sunday 24th
We woke up at 6:30 am, had breakfast and drove
to the mountains. Destination: Karpenissi. But it's foggy there
and the snow is poor. We give up on that pretty quick and soon
we are back on the road, driving to Harakova, thinking about
hitting Fterolissi and Kalaria (in the area of Mount Parnassos,
where the nymphes lived during the Classic Age!) as our final
destination. It takes us two hours to get from Karpenissi to
Harakova. We arrive too late: it's foggy and we have to make
do with two descents only. Before going to look for a hotel in
Delfi we introduce ourselves to Xristos, the man responsible
for security on the slopes. and we arrange to meet the following
day at 8:30 am.
Monday 25th
We leave at dawn. The weather is fine today,
during the night a brisk wind has cleaned the sky of clouds.
It's a very beautiful day. We drive to Fterolara passing Harakova,
sometimes called "The Greek Courmayeur", and arrive
at the slopes....surprise! I meet Stefano Epiney, from Saint
Vincent-Aosta Valley,who is leading a
group of aspiring local guides on behalf of the UIAA. During
the morning we take only few photos but we find a lot of fine
white
powder!
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Later, we skied down some difficult steep
gullies, in the eastern area of the ski resort, where we stopped
to take a lot of interesting photos. At 2:20 pm we took the chairlift
and then we go on as far as the peak of Mount XXXXX, a satellite
of the Mount Parnassos Chain's main peak. When we arrive beyond
the crest we can admire, at the same time, the Aegean Sea and
the Ionian Sea: an amazing view. The descent is unforgettable:
first, transformed snow, few metres of crust and then, on the
mountainside in the shade,behind a hillock, more sweet powder. |
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We arrived down at Fteloraria Square after the lifts have closed,
so we carry our skis up to a snowy crest west of the square and,
finally, we skied down to the Main Road in a beautiful landscape
with pines, rocks and spring snow. At the end of the day we had
dinner at Xristos restaurant in Harakova (good food, charming
atmosphere and low prices!).
Tuesday 26th
We spend the morning climbing for turns. It
took us two hours to get to the top (with skins) but happily
Maurizio discovered a very steep gully: the snow looked good
but after the first curve, the thin
layer of snow disappeared and ice and protruding rocks came into
view. This descent brings to mind some of the difficult steep
gullies on the Mount Blanc region back in the Alps. Running down
for about 500 metres we arrive at a col from which we can access
a beautiful hidden slope: we ski down to the eastern valley of
Parnassos and from there we have to go up to the col from where
we can reach the highest peak of the whole group, Liakoura. The
ascent on set-up snow is easy and the landscape is beautiful.
The descent is fantastic: when we arrive at the car park we're
so tired! It has been a great day: we've made 3 ascents and 4
descents (and one of them it has been very difficult). Greece
is a pleasant surprise!
Wednesday 27th
Early in the morning we visit the archaeological
site of Delfi and then, what else? more skiing, of course!!!!
It's foggy today and we have to use maps and the compass to find
the way? We
go up to Liakoura Peak and then we ski down a mountainside where
the sun, thanks to a light wind, is shining bright.Great!
Thursday 28th
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Today we skied in the pine woods to take
some photos. After skiing for 4 hours, completely satisfied,
we said goodbye and thanks to our friends from Ftelolaria with
the promise we'll be back next year in December to ski more of
their fantastic powder. |
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We spent the afternoon driving to Elassona
(a small town below Mount Olympus): it takes us 4 hours to get
there from Ftelolaria.
In Elassona we stay at Hotel Kastro.
Friday 29th- Mount Olympus
A short introduction: in the area of Mount
Olympus there's a military base and foreigners are forbidden
access to it. We must have special permission (which had to be
applied to the Greek Embassy of our own Country), and of course
we don't have it. But thanks to Xristos and all the trouble he
went to for us, we leave Elassona at 6:30 am bound for Mount
Olympus. After 42 km (for at least 12 km the road is in very
bad condition) we get to the military base where our friend John
meets Petros Alexandratos, the officer commanding the base. Everything
is ok and we can start our trip well equipped with ice axes,
crampons, rope, and everything else we need.
The landscape is a cluster of snowy peaks,
2700-2800 metres high.
When you pass over the first stationary skilift you can see the
Shelter B (an emergency refuge at about 2790 metres, just on
the top of a detritus cone). You must go up in its direction
to 2400 metres, here you turn north-west to get to a large col
2800 metres high. You follow the crest bordering the Scoglio
(2904 metres) to arrive at the top of Santo Stefano (2909m) where
you leave your skis. The following part of the ascent is the
most dangerous: you climb in a line, with crampons on, and after
about 30 minutes get to the base of Mytica Peak (roped travel
is advisable: on both sides there are 300/400 m precipices).
The landscape recalls the American Rocky Mountains
and the snow is fantastic.We put our skis on and make what we
believe to be the first descent of Mount Olympus on telemark
skis: it's exciting! We are visiting the home of Zeus!!! The
descent is long and it takes us about an hour! That
night we stayed at the Hotel Kastro. It is terrible and noisy
but very cheap. Even if the following night, we paid double,
we still don't suggest you to stay at the Kastro!
Saturday 2nd
In the morning we go up to XXXXXXXX Peak from
where we can ski down as far as our van in the car park. But
rapidly comes the time for saying goodbye to Petros, and thanks
a lot. We leave for Lamia and 4 hours later we are at back at
the Hotel America again. For dinner we have excellent fried squid.
Especially after a week spent eating only lamb, pork, chicken
and salad. The night passes uneventfully.
Sunday 3rd
Heading back to Athens on the motorway E75,
we stop at a service area and there, at the bar, Maurizio discovers
that it's possible to have a cup of real good coffee ( we couldn't
stand another cup of terrible Greek coffee..). The traffic jams
and the smog of Athens is such a contrast from the peace of the
mountains.
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Anyway, we've enough time to visit the
Acropolis (the entrance is free on Sundays and public holidays)
before turning the van back in at the airport. To go back from
the airport to the city centre we take the bus E95 (the ticket
is 2,30E).We spent one last night in Greece at Hotel John Palace
where we had a fantastic but expensive dinner (fish only). |
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That night we said goodbye to our British
friends who were leaving the following day, early in the morning.
Monday 4th
We head back home to Italy, after buying Metaxa,
Houzo, olive oil, olives, sweets!
EPILOGUE
The area we visited is out of the typical
tourist routes (particularly
the Mount Olympus area), so you must adapt yourselves to situations
or hotels which are not always as easy and plush as one might
find on the more well traveled paths. If you love freeriding
and ski touring we strongly recommend you visit the Parnassos
area: here you can also have a good time at night!
PS: if you want you can sleep at altitude,
in a tent, reading the Greek Classics by candlelight while skiing
during the day!!
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THANKS TO GREECE AND GREEK PEOPLE:
"Even if the Greek Tourist Office in
Rome still hasn't replied to our pre-trip requests for information
yet."
WE RECOMMEND :
Lamia: Hotel American
Harakova: Restaurant Myoapi (Ask for Mr. Xristos)
Elassona: No recommendation here.
Delfi: Hotel Sybilla
THE CHARACTERS
John Eames
Andrew Denton
Xristos
Nancy
Econoumos, also know as, "The American"
"The Pigeon"
"The Badger"
"The Professor"
Jimmy Sesana
Morten Aass
And last but not least???..I "El Diablo"
(Piero Ruffino)
Visit ours homes pages: photo-zoom.com
& fuoriditraccia.org
Copyright 2002-2003 Piero Ruffino
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